!!WORK IN PROGRESS!!

Things to change/fix before full release: (In order)

1. Verify & ensure TPU functionality.

Most victorian-era / plague doctor inspired syringe props I found aren't functional, since they're intended to be filled with liquids such as that found in glow sticks; then sealed of. I wanted a functional one since I believe it's more fun if it's interactive, so I took the chance to make my own 🎃

I haven't measured it yet, but I think it'll hold around ~45ml -- around the size of a large shot! Perfect if you're going to a party ;)
But if you're planning on consuming alcohol from it, make sure you take the chemical resistance of your glue into consideration; you don't want to accidentally consume it. From my reading, most hot-glue sticks, and superglue made from ethyl cyanoacrylate should be fine for short-term exposure. Also understand that most 3D prints are never truly food-safe. Ultimately, your safety is your own responsibility.
Under 18? Use it for Capri-suns or something idk.

Designed for a gasket with an outer diameter of ~26mm, and an inner diameter of ~22mm. I'd imagine it's possible to print one out of TPU if needed, but I haven't tried it. I've included a couple gasket models for you to try, though they might need to be up/down scaled by a few percent. I also suggest enabling "Make overhangs printable" in your slicer since it's not designed for printing. Honestly I doubt the gasket models will work in their current state, so eventually I'll probably print some TPU gaskets myself to make sure they work; but I won't have time before halloween '26. You may try, but I wouldn't suggest it unless you're willing to go through some trial & error.

Assets used in cover photo:
'Writing Desk' by Osian CG
'Pierandrea Matthiolus’s Herbarium' by Virtual Museums of Małopolska
'Packaging for ointment for the treatment' by Virtual Museums of Małopolska
'Ink Bottle with Quill' by Matthew Collings
'Wood 027' by ambientCG
'Metal 046 A' by ambientCG
'Metal 061 A' by ambientCG

Doesn't Matter

Yes

Designed with a 0.2mm nozzle in mind, usually printing at a 0.3mm line-width.

Some overhangs may be challenging -- for these sections, I printed at a layer-height of 0.04mm. You may also want to set the elephant foot compensation to a really low number or even completely off when printing the handles, and the needle cover.

Supports are suggested for the main body's upper arches, and the connectors of the handles.

A pause should be included at the bottom of the plunger before any layers appear mid-air, here you'll place a gasket before continuing the print.

The tank is designed for spiral/vase mode with a line-width of 0.42mm. I found that the tolerances here are incredibly tight, even just changing my print speed from 15mm/s to 40mm/s seemed to throw it off; therefore I've also included sizes ranging from 0.45-0.39mm. Start with 0.42mm and work from there.

Check the included .3mf file for any further guidance.

Try assembling everything without glue at first, to make sure you understand the process.

1. Apply a small amount of glue to the bottom of the tank, then insert the tank -- bottom first -- into the body. I suggest a viscous superglue. Applying too much glue here will cause the glue to overflow into the path of the plunger's stalk, so less is more. Let dry.
2. Insert the plunger -- stalk first -- through the tank.
3. Glue the plunger handle into the stalk of the plunger. Let dry.
4. Apply glue to the walls of the body above the tank. Insert the needle, base first so it sits on top of the tank. Let dry while applying light pressure to make sure it's water tight.
5. Apply glue to the top surface of the needle base, and install the needle cover. Let dry.
6. Glue the handles into the body one at a time. Let dry while applying light pressure from the inside loop of the handle by pinching the handle and body together -- this is to make sure the handle gets installed straight and doesn't sag while the glue dries.
7. Repeat n.6 for the handle on the other side.