Knitting Wool Hank Tool

Model Overview & Print Notes

Summary This is a tool I designed and printed for my girlfriend. It helps her to create wool hanks from balls. Those hanks are used to dye the wool. To build the tool you need a 16 mm x 16 mm aluminum profile, some M8 machine screws and matching nuts with hex head. You also need a soldering iron or heat gun to mount the bolts and nuts inside the plastic parts. P.S.: I wonder if anybody here will make one! Please tell me if you did!11 Print Settings Printer: Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus Delta Printer <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong> <div><p>No</p></div></p> <p class="detail-setting supports"><strong>Supports: </strong> <div><p>Yes</p></div></p> <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong> <div><p>0,1</p></div></p> <p class="detail-setting infill"><strong>Infill: </strong> <div><p>60</p></div></p> <br> <p class="detail-setting notes"><strong>Notes: </strong> </p><div><p>This is not easy to make. You need to two of each. The sliders need to be printed with supports. Make sure that the part where the screw goes is on top and the beam is near the bed. This is needed for the lock mechanism to work. The tongue inside the channel needs to be "free". Because of this you will have a rough surface where the wool goes. I sanded it and then (without cleaning the residue) used the head gun at 400C to make the surface glossy. </p><p>I also used the heat gun to sink in the nuts into the sides of the sliders. For this I put the nuts on the screws, hold it with tongs into the hot air and then press it into the plastic. Afterwards I push the still soft plastic to burry the nut inside. </p><p>The machine screw heads go into the knobs using a similar technique.</p><p>For the sliders you can expect some file or sanding work. They are very tight and will most likely not fit straight after printing them. But it should not need a lot of work until the nicely slice onto the aluminum extrusions.</p><p>After they do slide the can very nicely locked with the screws. But beware of putting too much pressure onto it, that may pop the nuts out of their holes. The pressure needed is also very low in general.</p><p>The caps are glued in the profile and protect one from the sharp edges of the aluminium. I needed the slider to be able to go softly over them. The profile I had here was a bit to short for the 700 mm distance we wanted. So I made the sliders in a way that they can extend the range by about 30 mm when going onto the far ends of the stick. As everything is really tight fit I had to spent some time with sanding the caps to run inside the sliders nicely. If you have some longer profile you may even use them as stopper for the sliders to not fall off.</p></div>