Sovol Klipper Screen cooling fan case SV07, SV07+, SV06, SV06 Plus

Model Overview & Print Notes

Add the following lines in your printer.cfg: [temperature_sensor Klipper_Screen] sensor_type: temperature_host You will see the screen runs at **temperatures over 60°C** (over 80°C in Australian summer). **That's not healthy!** Watch my video about this project: https://youtu.be/RabF5doWNUU This model includes a **new, slightly thicker back,** that is 100% compatible with the original, but **has space for either a 3010 or 4010 fan** inside. You also get an **optional replacement front piece** and a power button, if you want to print the whole case from the same material. But it is not strictly necessary, just the back is enough for the fan upgrade. New versions of the Klipper Screen include a 24V fan connector, which you can use directly, or get 24V off the power supply for older models. How to find out if you have the newer? If you don't want to take it apart: newer Klipper screens have extra vent holes on the back (see [comparision photo](https://i.imgur.com/0fp6zzT.jpeg)). **Included in the set:** - back piece variants - see below - **print only one!** - slide in knobs for the back - print 2 pcs - slide in rail1 and rail2 for the back - print one of each - wedges to secure back slides - print 6 pcs **If printing the front too:** - front piece variants - see below - **print only one!** - button - button insert **Back variants:** (11) - "30x30x10" or "40x40x10" fan - "boxy" or "tapered" - regular vents or "'SOVOL vents" - includes opening for "top USB" (choose matching front!) - includes opening for "bulkhead WIFI" antenna All back variants start with the word "back". Select the variant which includes the keywords. The "Sovol" vents *project the word "Sovol"* on the desk in front of the screen (see [included photo](https://files.cults3d.com/uploaders/22944044/illustration-file/68b3150c-9713-46b9-bb6e-bf4d9d83a505/20231121_194919_Large.jpg)!) **Mounting variants** (3): - basic 2xknobs + rail1 and rail2 (6 wedges) - lockable 2x locking knobs + 2x knob locks + rail1&2 (6 wedges) - universal GoPro mount compatible adapter (4 wedges) See UPDATE 4 and 5 notes below for details. **Front variants:** (11) - "boxy" or "tapered" - superglued "hexnut" (M3L2.4) or "heat-set insert" (M3L4D4.5 or D5) - "clean" or includes the SOVOL words, logo and motif on the front - includes opening for "top USB" (choose matching back!) The "top USB" port provides access to the second USB Type-C connector on the top of the board marked "DOWNLOAD". I am not sure what function it has. It's seated deeper in the case, so we need a slightly larger opening for the plug. Do not select these variants unless you have a use for this port, otherwise it is just another opening on the top of your Klipper Screen case. --- **What you need** --- - 24V cooling fan 4010 or 3010 If printing the front too: - 4× [**M3xL4xOD4.5 heat-set-inserts**](https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DdmGqIl) or 4× **M3 nuts** **Important:** Fan has to be [24V 4010 (40x40x10)](https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DlBwB85) or [3010 (30x10x10)](https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DFcLbnT), make sure to install it so the **air is sucked out** of the case!! The bottom grills provide the intake so there is a good airflow over the heatsink of the CPU. The model uses the four hex socket M3/12 screws as the original screen. Use either 4× **M3 nuts** super-glued into the corners of the front piece, or 4× **M3xL4xOD4.5 heat-set-inserts.** Print the right variant! **Assembly instructions** --- Refer to photos step 0→12. If you like videos better: [8 minute silent youtube video](https://youtu.be/O2dTrTISuBU) or watch my [longer video about the design and narrated assembly](https://youtu.be/RabF5doWNUU) [Step 0.](https://files.cults3d.com/uploaders/22944044/illustration-file/9edff926-d7c5-4dcb-a5a1-237e097d4f16/step0.jpg) print parts, see 3D printing settings below [Step 1.](https://files.cults3d.com/uploaders/22944044/illustration-file/a5409efb-92c0-4049-b86d-fdee63e32b5f/step1.png) **insert the two rails** into back piece: they and their slots are marked with 1 and 2 little notches, I designed it so the 2x2 wedges will fit only if they are oriented correctly. [Step 2.](https://files.cults3d.com/uploaders/22944044/illustration-file/e366fbb9-8528-4940-93f8-c61f20697075/step2.jpg) **screw in the fan** (using plate screws from the inside?). Two corners are probably enough to hold. (you might need to power on the screen with the fan plugged in to test the fan orientation). It's best if the wire goes to the side away from the USB port (as shown in the photo above) [Step 3.](https://files.cults3d.com/uploaders/22944044/illustration-file/c4e468ca-f53a-4fa1-91fc-3a0772dcb218/step3.jpg) **plug in the two knobs** (from the bottom) and secure them with the remaining two wedges. The wedges should point towards the bottom of the screen **If printing the front too:** [Step 4.](https://files.cults3d.com/uploaders/22944044/illustration-file/226f81e3-e35b-4d7d-a5b6-54ee41857b40/step4.png) **assemble the button:** attach the L shaped "button-insert" into the button, oriented as shown in the drawing (step 4). It is a tight fit, you might need to carve a bit from the insert to fit. Adjust the insert to get the perfect distance from the switch. [Step 5.](https://files.cults3d.com/uploaders/22944044/illustration-file/b7cb4593-e024-4afd-8460-17bd367a207b/step5.png) glue in the **hexnuts** or use the **heat-set inserts** (see above) Step 6. Carefully peel off the antenna from the side of the original back (you can heat it gently with a hair dryer if it is sticking too much). You can see in my video I actually did not stick it to the new bakc, just put a piece of label backing paper on it to preserve its stickiness. Step 7. place the **board into the front** of the case with the screen facing down. Align the screw holes Step 8. **add the power button** (shorter wing down). It should line up with the switch on the board Step 9. **plug in the fan** Step 10. **secure the back** of the case with the 4 screws. You might need to apply a *little* force for the sides to line up and snap together Step 11. **slide the screen on the mounting bracket** on the side of the printer (bracket not inlcuded in this model) Step 12. insert the optional **knob locks** to further secure the screen so it doesn't accidentally slide out (details in *Update 4* below) I show you all of these steps in [this 8 minute silent youtube video](https://youtu.be/O2dTrTISuBU) or watch my [longer video about the design and narrated assembly](https://youtu.be/RabF5doWNUU) PS: if you installed it, make sure to try with the lights turned off in the room. There is an internal light that projects a [fun pattern](https://files.cults3d.com/uploaders/22944044/illustration-file/4009799b-4b69-42f7-86d9-cca549cf8813/20231121_195052_Large.jpg) on the desk in front of the Klipper screen through the [newly designed vent holes](https://files.cults3d.com/uploaders/22944044/illustration-file/87321ea0-d642-4b3a-9d45-b66462086ec8/2023-11-21-19_37_29-Autodesk-Fusion-360-Personal-Not-for-Commercial-Use.jpg) :) **UPDATES** --- **UPDATE 1:** fixed all watertightness issues **UPDATE 2:** added a clean box front variant without any text, logo or pattern **UPDATE 3:** Updated the "SOVOL vent" back variants where the "L" is now projected correctly. Updated the heat-set insert front variants to have a little chamfer to help you center the inserts (D4.5). I have added multiple back variants with openings for the second USB Type-C socket on the top, and a 7mm hole on the side for bulk-head Wifi antenna. Note for the antenna (credit: torte71): The connector type is IPEX MHF1 (U.FL). [This cheap antenna](https://www.amazon.de/dp/B0CG3F3FLN) makes a big difference. I have also added "clean" front variants without any texture (no logo, text or motif). Choose the "top USB" variants of both top and bottom for the secondary Type-C port to be accessible. [This image hightlights the new options](https://files.cults3d.com/uploaders/22944044/illustration-file/1e87cbfd-9947-4835-b13e-2561881b1176/20231129_182119_Large.jpg) I hope I haven't overcomplicated things, there are 11 back and 11 front variants now, you can easily choose the one you need by checking the keywords in the file names. Please let me know if you have a better idea, or missing any variation. **UPDATE 4:** Locking knob option - if you hate that the screen slides out of the bracket too easily. Print a pair of "knob locks" and "locking knobs" (instead of the regular knobs). After sliding in the screen you will be able to plug the holes with the *knob locks*. Turn them to lock them in place. See [animated image](https://files.cults3d.com/uploaders/22944044/illustration-file/2d176e60-f6e3-4152-bbb6-13600da623e1/locking-knob.gif) **UPDATE 5:** Universal GoPro mount option! Remove the knobs and replace the rails with this GoPro adapter on the bottom of the case, so you can use any GoPro mount or GoPro comatible clamp, swivel, ball joint to attach the screen to! This opens up a variety of 3D printed or commercial mounting system for the Klipper Screen. Adpater works with any of the back variants, you don't need to reprint the back! This GoPro mount is the only component that needs to be printed with limited supports (only from build-plate). Please see attached Slicer preview image! **UPDATE 6:** Fan speed control via step-down "buck" converter. Eight new back variants with "slow-fan" in their names now include a slot for this adjustible buck converter: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEamriH Print 4 of the slow-fan half-pegs used to secure the board to the support. Use the small flat-head screw driver that came with your printer to turn the little screw to find the balance between noise and cooling performance. You can turn it way down as long as the screen is kept below 50°C. New video on the upgrade → https://youtu.be/ub-Q_-zFCVU Thank you for all your support! ## 3D Printing Settings All parts are oriented the way you can print them. No brims and no supports necessary (except for the GoPro mount adapter)! Please see the recommended build plate arrangement in the included screenshot. It prints well from PLA, and if a fan is used operating well below PLA glass transition temperature. If you are not planning to add a fan, at least PETG is recommended! Here are my Cura settings: - **Layer height** 0.2 (including first layer), line width 0.44 - **Walls:** 4! (1.6mm) for strength, wall ordering outside to inside for accuracy. Z seam alignment sharpest corner, corner preference: hide - **Top/bottom** as you like (I like to enable 1 the top surface layer with lines and 90° but it's in the inside, so shouldn't matter). *Important:* with the new firmware I had to set skin overlap to 40%. If you have at least 8 top+bottom layers (e.g. 4/4 or 5/3) there will be no or minimal infill on the back/front side. The strength of the back comes from the frame inside - **Infill** is not important, there is almost none used, the strength comes from many walls. I had infill set to 10% gyroid. - **Speed** is ideal at 180 for accuracy, except the first layer which is set to 70. If you are too fast it might not fit together. - **Cooling:** max (the front screen cutout chamfer has some relatively steep overhang) - **No brims, no supports** necessary! You can add a skirt. (Except the GoPro mount adapter, print it separately, see instructions in the Update section above!) - **Print "all at once".** The small pieces benefit from cooling while the rest is printing. - **There are no bridges** and only a few overhangs, all below 45° (in Orca/Prusia slicer enable option "Make overhangs printable" to avoid cantilever warnings) With these setting print time 3 hours, 88g filament for the complete case. 2hours 58g if only printing the back.

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