1/10 RC Center Console Boat with Functional Trim, Teak Deck & optional Trailer (Contender 30ST)

Model Overview & Print Notes

This is a project I've been working on for the past year. It's a scale-inspired, 1/10, radio-controlled center console boat with fully functional trim and lift for two outboard motors. It is capable of high speeds, excellent maneuverability, and realistic handling. The hull is based on a Contender 30ST, and thanks to the original designer, it's freely available! I redesigned the entire interior to make it fully 3D printable, compatible with RC electronics, and to incorporate a functional trim mechanism for the outboard motors. After several test runs on the water, I'm very happy with the result. It looks great, is a lot of fun to drive—and maybe just a little too fast. 🙂 An optional scale trailer is available seperatly. It features three axles, working lights, and a functional trailer jockey wheel. The trailer is designed for use with a 1/10 RC crawler, allowing you to launch and retrieve the boat just like the real thing. If you buy both, you get an discount: https://cults3d.com/en/users/d3ca/bundles/rc-center-console-boat-bundle :) Watching it in action looks amazing! Video 1: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1w73D0rmTi_ZRKLiGg-stw_XYXkYc8C9T/view Video 2: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GwmePnJvHc0Qr8Eb0iV8RWpe9tO00he2/view (Please note that these videos show different stages of the project's development. I further optimized the center of gravity and the outboards after the initial test runs.) **Boat Features:** - Five-piece hull optimized for 255 × 255 × 255 mm FDM printers - Electronic trim for both outboards, incl. lift out of the water - Waterproof battery compartment secured with thumb screws - Double-sealed electronics compartment - Scale-inspired helm and T-top, prepared for LED lighting - Scale-inspired teak deck design - Two modified outboard motors based on Ethan Hoefler's design (only my modified files are included) - Integrated channels for motor wiring and water-cooling tubes - Railing from filament leftovers - Windshield **Dimensions:** Length: 900mm + Outboards (around 1000mm) Width: 245mm Height: 350mm (with antennas) Weight: 4,5KG with batteries **Changelog:** V4: Added an optional teak deck design V3: Added an optional windshield, more detailed build instructions V2: Added missing steering rod V1: Release ## 3D Printing Settings All files are pre sliced, and optimized for 0.2, 0.4, and 0.6 nozzles. (Of cause you can print with every nozzle you want) ;) You will need the original files for the outboards, which are available here: https://www.ethoefler.com/outboard-build-page **Materials Boat:** - ~3KG PETG: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005012737466812.html - Multiple M3 stainless steel screws: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005007588971117.html - 4x Stainless steel thumb screw M3x8mm: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008315520837.html - 2mm rubber band: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005009520387631.html - 1x Shoulder screw M3x14mm: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008314676042.html - 5mm silicone tube (5M): https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008172886086.html - (optional) lights (18mm white): https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008934541818.html - 2x 25T aluminium servo saver: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005007922305341.html - 2x Battery straps: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005004825415604.html - 1x 1mm steel rod (both antennas) **Materials outboards:** (You can find the original BOM from the author Ethan Hoefler here: https://www.ethoefler.com/outboard-build-page (But I made some changes to it)) - 2x Horizontal stainless steel shaft with M3 thread (⌀3mm X 62mm Long): https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005003594895025.html - 2x Vertical stainless streel shaft (⌀3mm X 62mm Long): https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005003594895025.html - 10x 3x7x3 Stainless Ball Bearing: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006135905863.html - 4x 0.5M20T Tooth Brass Bevel Gear: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008667610642.html - 1x 3mm ID X 5mm OD Ring Shim Kit (Tamiya 53585) - 24x 6mm X 2mm Thick Neodymium Magnets: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005010176518237.html - 2x Shaft Dog/Propeller Coupler (3mm): https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008996086412.html - 2x 32mm x 3.17mm Propeller: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008348223372.htm - 2x 3mm X 30mm Long Clevis Pin: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005003990055624.html - 2x M3 X 25mm Long Socket Cap Screw: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008585550992.html - 2x M3 Plain Nut: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005004737775535.html - 2x M3 Nylock Nut: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005004737775535.html - 4x M3 Washer (from M2/M3 screw kit) - 2x M2 X 6mm Screw (from M2/M3 screw kit) - 2x CNC Shaft Couplers (3mm & 3.17mm/0.125 INCH): https://de.aliexpress.com/item/4000201942079.html - 1x Brass tube (OD 4mm x ID 3mm): https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005383357316.html **Electronics:** - 2x SURPASS HOBBY BS-V2 60A ESC: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005008806223440.html - 2x ZEEE 5200mAH 3S XT60 LiPo: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005007431679012.html - 2x SURPASS HOBBY 3650 3100KW Brushless motor: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005007256698742.html - 3x DSSERVO DS3225 25KG waterproof servo: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005005073143851.html **Assembly:** 1. Put four silicone tubes inside the four channels between hull part 1 & 2 and glue all hull parts together with epoxy. After that, you can sand and paint the boat as you like. 2. Battery tray cover (2 pieces), interieur (bench, console, steering wheel, throttle, windshield) and roof (radome, fishing pole holder, posts in 4 pieces, with 1 channel for an optional cable for LED lightning) will be glued in place by super glue. They are optional graphic plates for the seats and screens which can be attached now. 3. Attach the rubber ring to the battery and electronics tray with super glue. Put in the heat inserts inside the electronics tray and battery tray. 4. Mount the two trim servos (left and right) on to the hull (slide them in at an angle, cable pointing upwards, and push down after the cable is tucked away), and mount the servo server onto the servos. (put some superglue inside the servo savers, so they are rigid and won't "save") Align them so they both point backwards to hold the engines. 5. Screw the mounting brackets (or L-brackets) on to the servo savers, and mount the steering servo on to the brackets. Screw the shoulder screw on the steering servo arm (backwards) and put on the steering rod to assemble the steering. 6. Build the motors, there are detailed videos about the process from Ethan Hoefler here: https://www.ethoefler.com/outboard-build-page When finished, Mount the outboards on to the L-brackets and connect the steering rod with two M3 screws. 7. Solder the motor cables and put them together with the servo cables through the holes in the hull. Assemble the electronics and close the electronic tray with four M3 screws. Move the batteries and ESCs forward as far as possible and secure them with doublesided tape and battery straps. Use silicone to waterproof the cable channels in the hull and electronics tray. 8. Now the fun part begins with the alignment of both engines - to have a precise working trim. You can do it with an professional grade radio, reverse one servo and try to align them with offsets and end points. I personally used an arduino for the whole mechanism, which was more convenient. 9. If everything is setup, charge your batteries, put the interieur / battery cover on and have fun. 🙂 PS: It was a very challenging and long project, so I may have forgotten something. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact me. I'll check my messages regularly and fix any bugs that are reported.

Files (42)